JIL SANDER's recent launch of extension brand JIL SANDER NAVY is supported by the above ad campaign shot by David Sims. Typically JIL SANDER, well cut, slightly masculine in style with strong, bold colours, arts director Macs Iotti has encapsulated the iconic brand image excellently. Styled by Beat Bolliger the classic white shirt is matched with asymmetric cuts and unexpected layering.
CHRISTIAN DIOR- THEATRICAL 'NEW LOOK' 50'S INSPIRED PIECES WITH AN ETHNIC INFLUENCE STARTLINGLY ELEGANT WITH A DARKER ALMOST VAMPIRIC FEEL
ELLIE SAAB- BRUSHED FLOUNCES AND FLOWERS WITH SEQUINNED DRAPED EMBELLISHMENT ORGANZA IN BRUSHED PINK BLACK WHITE MOSS AND RED
GIVENCHY- PRECSION CUT ORIGAMI-INPIRED CONSTRUCTION ORIENTAL GRACEFUL SAMURI IN CHIFFON AND AN ELEGANT SOFTNESS CONTRASTING DELICATE DETAILING WITH IMPOSING BACK PLATES
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER- 'PUNK COUTURE' HARD-EDGED AND INNOVATIVE ECSQUISITlEY TAILORED
Stefano Pilati's 2011-12 Menswear show at YSL today, emphasised his vision of the 'YSL Man'. The tailoring was close to the body and the silhouette was elongated and slim. In contrast the over-sized outerwear allowed an alternative look for the boyish models. The structure and shape was held mainly in the construction of the pieces and the double-breasted lean jackets, along with the charcoal cape above, develop an increasingly sophisticated elegant brand image at YSL Menswear.
Thierry Mugler left his label a long while ago, whilst the house still bares his name, famed now more for his eponymous fragrance line and being head costume designer at Beyonce's world tour, Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga's personal friend and stylist, has taken the reigns of the houses' design. The show itself coincided with the release of ,current queen of everything avant-garde, Lady Gaga's latests single, which featured as the soundtrack of the show, which had strong gothic and dark characteristics. The show was not, strictly speaking, a fashion show, but more of an art show, featuring latex coated models wrapped in nylon and plastic suiting. Critics according to 'Style.com' stated that the show was more of a 'walking editorial' and 'more styling than design', both points that I agree with. None of the clothes shown were particularly 'ground-breaking' for menswear, although the show was certainly audience engaging Formchetti's claimed 'wearability' remains resoundingly unseen. The viewpoint and aesthetic, for me personally, is perfect for the outlandish stage-performances of Lady Gaga, or for a styling project in an editorial shoot, but as seriously 'designed menswear' collection, one can't help but be dissapointed slightly.
(Featured video: Collaborative project: Lady Gaga; Romain Kremer, Mariano Vivanco and model Rico)
Featuring trans-gender, Tisci-favourite, Givenchy model Lea T and Kate Moss getting it on, what's not to love about Love? One of several new covers for the magazines 5th issue it was shot by Marcus & Mert and featuring the 'THIS IS HARDCORE SLOGAN' the cover will hardly lay low on the newsstands, the hard-edged femininity and the obviously sexual connotations are just unbelievably cool.
Katie Grand talks about her 'muse' for Issue 5 of 'LOVE': Lea T
The autumn/winter 2011 show by Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch cast Lea T in a black, column-style gown with sleeves made from black and neon yellow lace. Her hair was asymmetrically styled in a dramatic side-parting and swept across her forehead.
T is no stranger to the world of high fashion. It was while working as an assistant to Riccardo Tisci, the creative director ofGivenchy, that she began embracing her more feminine side: "One night, he (Riccardo Tisci) encouraged me to wear heels to a party. We went shopping for these drag queen high heels and bleached my eyebrows. It was a revelation," she said.
The New Givenchy ad-campaign is, as always, a fresh and contrasting one compared to most this season. Reflecting the usual muted, monochromatic visuals of the collections, the ads by Mert & Marcus are strikingly minimalist, whilst remaining true to the iconic brand image of refined, classic stylistic simplicity. Offering a muted and serene whimsical elegance and using juxtaposed romantic/surreal imagery the ads strike a resonance in comparison to the more colourful, attention grabbing seen this season (Gucci and Louis Vuitton).
Prada menswear, as usual, never fails to impress. Like always the boundaries of menswear were pushed a little further and something a little different was shown, creating a pleasant contrast to the other Milanese menswear shows (Dolce and Gabbana). Oversized, shoulder padded, single breasted black jackets were a staple, off-set by jumpers with geometric designs in browns and purple. The diamond print suede jackets were also to die for. Photos/ Video coming soon.
Tom Ford's much anticipated return to the fashion world with his secretly shown SS/11 collection. It's fantastic. I love it. Not only do I adore the collection and the pieces themselves, in particular the escalloped metallic jacket worn by Freja and the heavily tasselled, fringed pieces worn by Daphne Guinness and Julianne Moore, but more the communal, celebratory atmosphere of the industry elite rejoicing in the light of one mans immense talent. An element not seen so often in highly produced heavily 'choreographed' shows: cold, fierce, devoid-of-human-emotion looking models, little audience/photographer interaction and certainly less constant designer-audience connection, as seen when Ford views the entire show from the runway himself. The pieces all look exquisitely produced and designed thoroughly for the 'fierce' woman Ford's clothes have become eponymous with. The diverse mix of models paired with a 70's glam vibe that's all over this season, (think Marc Jacobs) Ford seems set to re-take a position high in the design ranks.
A return to his roots possibly? Certainly a much heavier, 'grungier' collection to follow SS/11 offering a range of reinvented Wang classics. Slouchy knits, washed light denim and an edgy biker jacket teamed with the softer incorporation of a long nylon jacket and the 'always-a-winner' black leather/ camel short combination. Subtly refined details off-set the collection giving it a softer, yet current feeling on womenswear.
